Garment crotch construction



Dec. 30, 1969 R. N. BREGENZER ETAL 3,486,507

GARMENT CROTCH CONSTRUCTION 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Dec.

M s iggis 67mg 4 M aii gs INVENTOBS PobcrZ 7151199 12262 and 5. 612720!Dec. 30, 1969 R. N. BR EGENZER ETAL 3,486,507

GARMENT CROTCH CONSTRUCTION 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Dec.

United States Patent O 3,486,507 GARMENT CROTCH CONSTRUCTION Robert N.Bregenzer, Alamo, and Amy J. Arnold, Bells, Tenn., assignors to KellwoodCompany, St. Louis, Mo., a corporation of Delaware Filed Dec. 8, 1967,Ser. No. 689,045 Int. Cl. A41c 1/00, A41b 9/04 US. Cl. 128528 8 ClaimsABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE An improved crotch construction forsnug-fitting panttype garments designed to provide increased comfort andadjustability in the garment, especially in regard to the risedimension, eliminating or greatly reducing the usual tendency ingarments of the type mentioned to ride up with leg movement of thewearer. The crotch construction comprises a central swatch or island ofsoft fabric, stretchable in a side-to-side direction, and anencompassing swatch or flange of a different type of fabric such aspowernet stretchable primarily from front to rear or up-and-down.

Our invention relates to an improved crotch construction especiallysuitable for articles of ladies underwear such as panty girdles andsnugly fitting pant-type outer garments such as leotards, toreadorpants, etc., and is designed to provide increased flexibility, withenhanced comfort to the physically active wearer and greater riseadjustability.

BACKGROUND OF INVENTION It has long been the custom to construct a pantygirdle of firm but elastic fabric, usually of two-way-stretch material,with a non-stretchable panel over the abdomen and with a crotch piece orinsert of different material, usually of softer fabric, for greatercomfrot in this area.

Illustrative of prior art of this character are US. patents to: SegalNo. 1,114,540, Oct. 20, 1914; Boland No. 1,830,824, Nov. 10, 1931;Chubby No. 2,705,801, Apr. 12, 1955; Peck No. 2,908,277, Oct. 13, 1959;Cape No. 3,154,082, Oct. 27, 1964; McMurtrie, No. 3,207,162, Sept. 21,1965.

Such previously known structures, while providing a modicum of comfort,fail in general to contribute in any degree to the overall flexibilityof the garment.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION A particular object of our invention is toprovide, in a panty-type garment for outer or intimate wear, ofotherwise essentially standard construction, an improved crotch piecewhich contributes to a major extent to the flexibility of the garment,in addition to providing the desired local comfort.

More particularly, our improved crotch piece provides enhancedadjustability in the rise measurements of the panty girdle, whereby aparticular garment may comfortably be worn on a variety of figureshaving a substantial range of rise measurements.

Additionally, our improved crotch construction enhances a good overallfit, enabling the garment to remain in place on the figure despitesubstantial muscular involvement as in sitting, bending, climbing,running and other athletic activity such as tennis, golf, etc.

Briefly outlined, our invention contemplates a multielement crotchportion comprising a center piece which might be called an island,formed of a relatively soft, light-weight and highly flexible textilefabric having stretchability in a side-to-side direction, said islandbeing encompassed by a flange portion formed of a diflferent type ice offabric, i.e., one which is stretchable primarily in a vertical orfront-to-rear direction and to a lesser extent horizontally.

Said construction is simple and inexpensive to fabricate andaccomplishes all the desired objectives of comfort and flexibility.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS It should be understood that we describeour invention as embodied in a panty girdle for purposes of illustrationonly, and that it is equally applicable to other types of garments asspecified hereabove.

Referring now to the drawings forming part of this specification andillustrating certain preferred embodi ments of our invention,

FIG. 1 is a front perspective view of a panty girdle embodying ourinvention, shown as worn on the human figure;

FIG. 2 is a rear perspective view of the same;

FIG. 3 is a plan view of the garment, laid out to display the crotchconstruction;

FIG. 4 is a detail plan view of the crotch piece embodied in the garmentseen in FIGS. 1-3, inclusive;

FIG. 5 is a detail plan view of a modified form of crotch piece alsoembodying our invention;

FIG. 6 is the front perspective view similar to FIG. 1, showing agarment on the human figure comprising still another version of ourinvention, wherein the crotch piece is digitally openable;

FIG. 7 is a rear perspective view of the garment seen in FIG. 6;

FIG. 8 is a plan view of the same garment, laid out to display thecrotch construction of FIGS. 6 and 7;

FIG. 9 is a detail plan view of the crotch piece seen in FIGS. 6-8,inclusive, prior to its attachment to the body portion of the garment,and

FIG. 10 is an exploded plan view of the elements seen in FIG. 9.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION Referring first to FIGS. 1-4, inclusive, theembodiment there shown is a panty girdle 10 comprising a main bodyportion 12, which may be of any suitable design, standard or otherwise,including leg portions of any desired length, our invention beingapplicable to garments of the so-called short leg and long leg types,and having a crotch portion indicated generally by the numeral 15.

Body portion 12, as is customary in garments of this character, ispreferably formed of an elastic fabric of the character known aspowernet, so cut that its main stretchability is side-to-side, asindicated by the arrows in FIGS. 1 and 2.

Crotch portion 15 comprises a central swatch 18 of generally circular,oval or pear shape, as seen best in FIGS. 3 and 4, the narrow end of theswatch being disposed forwardly of the body.

Swatch 18 is preferably formed of a relatively soft and highly flexible,light-weight fabric and is preferably so woven as to be stretchable atleast in a side-to-side direction, as indicated by the arrows in FIGS. 3and 4. We have found especially suitable a weave known in the trade astricot, although doubtless other types of fabric might be employed. Wedo not wish to exclude a soft, lightweight and highly flexible fabricwhich might be elastic in two directions, although our purpose issatisfied if one way side-to-side stretchability is provided.Furthermore, while we have referred to a woven fabric, we do not wish toexclude other types of textile fabric such as knitted, netted, etc.

Swatch 18 is attached as by stitching 20 to an encompassing roughlydiamond-shaped swatch or flange 25 formed of a textile fabric ofdifferent character from switch 18, preferably of powernet materialsimilar to body portion 12 but arranged with its major stretchabilitylying in an up-and-down or front-to-rear direction, i.e., normal to theelasticity of the body portion 12. (See arrows, FIG. 2.)

It will, of course, be understood that other types of textile fabric,woven, knitted, netted, etc., may be used in lieu of powernet forelement 25, the main consideration being that it be relatively strongand firm, and highly resilient, quickly returning to its originalcondition after being stretched. In general, we may suggest that theobjects of our invention will be served if element 25 is formed ofmaterial similar to that of main body portion 12, provided, that it hasstretchability as described above.

It will be seen from FIGS. 3 and 4 that the swatch 25 is cut to have agenerally diamond shaped outer contour, the main body portion 12 beingfabricated to provide an opening of similar shape in the front, back andinner leg portions, whereby swatch 25 may be stitched to said main bodyportion as indicated by numeral 23.

Referring now to FIG. 5, we show here a slightly modified embodiment ofour invention, again with a permanently closed crotch. In this formcrotch piece 15a has a central element or island indicated by numeral18a which may be generally similar to element 18, being approximatelypear shaped, and formed of fabric similar to swatch 18. In this case,the encompassing portion is preferably formed in two pieces, 25a and25b, the former being of generally U shape while the latter is generallyarcuate, said outer swatches 25a and 251) being attached to inner swatch18a as by stitching 20a and 20b.

Elements 25a and 25b are preferably formed of material similar to thatof element 25 of the first described embodiment and having similarstretchability as indicated by the arrows (FIG. 5).

The embodiment of FIG. 5 has some advantages from the standpoint ofeconomic production, functioning in a generally similar manner to thatof the first embodiment.

Turning now to FIGS. 610, inclusive, we show here a modification whereinthe crotch is openable for sanitary purposes.

As seen best in FIGS. 8-10, inclusive, the crotch piece in this case isformed of two elements A and B. In both of said elements the innerportion 30, 30' respectively, corresponding to the island 18, 18a, ispreferably formed of a textile fabric similar to that of elements 18 and18a of FIGS. 1-5, i.e., being of soft, lightweight textile fabricstretchable at least in a side-to-side direction, as indicated by thearrows in FIGS. 9 and 10. Swatches 30 and 30 (FIG. 10) are preferably ofa generally semicircular shape, the arcuate edges thereof being stitchedas at 32, 32' to outer swatches 35, 35, the latter being preferablyformed of a textile fabric similar to that of elements 25, 25a and 25b,i.e., of a substantial elestic material such as powernet having itsmajor stretchability up and down, or from front to rear (see arrowsFIGS. 9 and 10).

The outer edges of swatches 35, when assembled (FIGS. 8 and 9), roughlyform a diamond shape, and are attached to an opening of similar shapeprovided in the main body portion of the garment as by stitching 38,while the free edges of elements A and B are reinforced as by elasticstitching 40.

It will be seen by reference to FIGS. 6-9 that elements A and B overlapeach other to a substantial extent to provide an adequate doubleclosure. Free edges 40 are preferably arcuate in shape to permitconvenient digital manipulation.

It will be seen that we have provided a crotch construction of improveddesign for a snugly fitting pant type garment of underwear or outerwearwhich may be produced either in a permanently closed or openable form,in any case providing increased flexibility of the garment. Because ofthe improved crotch construction, the garment will be adaptable to avariety of figures of different rise dimensions, while providingenhanced comfort and fit. Our improved construction also insures thatthe garment will remain firmly in place on the figure despite extrememuscular movement such as those incidental to bending, lifting, sitting,climbing, etc.

The primarily up-and-down elasticity of the powernet flange portion ofthe crotch piece contributes markedly to the flexibility of the risemeasurement, achieving a more adaptable garment to a variety of figures.

The flange portion of our improved crotch also provides improved controlin the leg portions of the garment because the elasticity of the flangefollows closely the body contours in the crotch area. As a result,riding up with resultant discomfort is minimized.

The primarily lateral elasticity of the island portion of the crotchpiece also contributes to preventing riding up when the wearerexercises.

Thus, we find markedly improved comfort and fit in our peculiar crotchconstruction described.

Regarding the openable crotch of FIGS. 610, in addition to theadvantages noted above, the powernet flanges 35 enhance theexpansibility of the flaps 30 when spread apart, supplying a memory toactuate recovery of the flaps to normal position when released.

Various changes coming within the spirit of our invention will no doubtsuggest themselves to those skilled in the art; hence, we do not wish tobe limited to the specific embodiments shown and described or usesmentioned, which are merely exemplary, our invention being limited )nlyby the appended claims.

We claim:

1. In a panty-type garment intended for snug fit, a main body portionand a crotch piece comprising:

(a) a first swatch of relatively soft, flexible, lightweight textilefabric which is elastic at least in a side-toside direction, and

(b) a second swatch encompassing said first swatch, said second swatchbeing of substantially heavier textile fabric of greater resilience thansaid first swatch and having stretchability primarily in a frontto-reardirection, said second swatch forming a relatively narrow flangestitched to a similarly shaped opening in said body portion.

2. A combination as in claim 1, wherein (a) said first swatch is afabric of the character of tricot, and

(b) said second swatch is a fabric of the character of powernet.

3. A combination as in claim 2, wherein (a) said first swatch isgenerally oval shaped and (b) the outer contour of said second swatch isgenerally diamond shaped.

4. A combination as in claim 1, wherein said second swatch comprises (a)a generally U-shaped part and (b) a separately cut arcuate partextending between the extremities of said U-shaped part, said partsbeing stitched together.

5. A combination as in claim 1, wherein said crotch piece comprises apair of generally similar partially overlapping portions, said portionshaving generally parallel, spaced free edges capable of digitalengagement for separation of said portions to expose adjacent anatomy ofthe wearer.

6. In a panty-type garment intended for snug fit, a main body portion,and a crotch piece comprising (a) a pair of generally similar, partiallyoverlapping portions,

(b) each portion having a first swatch forming an inner generallysemi-circular element having an arcuate edge and an approximatelystraight edge, and a second swatch forming an outer arcuate bandencompassing and stitched to the arcuate edge of the first swatch andhaving straight edges continuous with those of the first swatches, saidrespective straight edges being free and disposed in generally parallelspaced relation,

(c) each of said first swatches being formed of a relatively soft,flexible, lightweight textile fabric which is elastic at least in aside-to-side direction, and

(d) each of said second swatches being formed of a substantially heaviertextile fabric of greater resilience than said first swatches and havingprimarily front-to-rear stretchability,

(e) said portions normally forming a closure for the garment and beingseparable, by digital engagement of said free edges, to expose adjacentanatomy of the wearer.

7. A garment as in claim 3, wherein (a) said first swatch is a fabric ofthe character of tricot and l 6 (b) said second swatch is a fabric ofthe nature of powernet. 8. A garment as in claim 6, wherein (a) saidfirst swatches are fabric of the character of tricot and (b) said secondswatches are fabric of the character of powernet.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,705,801 4/1955 Chubby 128-5402,837,904 6/1958 Scriggins 128-525 3,207,162 9/1965 McMurtrie 128528ADELE M. EAGER, Primary Examiner US. Cl. X.R.

